A Brief History of Irish Lace

Donegal lace makers (c1865-1914) Image courtesy of the National Library of Ireland.

I first became aware of the amazing heritage craft of Irish lace making after discovering some remnants of Irish bobbin lace in a local antique shop. The intricate designs and skilled workmanship really grabbed my attention sparking my curiosity to learn more about this fascinating tradition.

When I first started researching the history and origins of Irish lace making I found myself going down a bit of a rabbit hole becoming totally engrossed in its rich and complex story.

The information I have jotted down here offers just a glimpse into what I have learned and is by no means meant to be a historical record. I will leave that to the experts!

Irish Lace: A Lifeline During the Famine

For me one of the most interesting facts I learned is that it was quite literally a life-saver during the harsh years of famine saving many families from starvation and destitution.

Irish lace was highly sought after by Europe’s elite, including members of the British royal family. Despite being crafted by some of the poorest citizens of Ireland, this lace adorned the wealthiest citizens across Europe, highlighting the stark contrast between its creators and clientele.

The Origins of Irish lace Making

One of the earliest records of lace making in Ireland is 1638 when a maker of lace in Dublin, Matthew Phillips, is recorded working on a pillow, with bobbins made of bone to weave intricate patterns.

Bobbin lace also known as bone or pillow lace is produced by plaiting threads around pins on a supporting pillow, using thread wound around bone or wooden bobbins weighted with glass beads. These bobbins are things of beauty in their own right and highly collectable.

Crochet lace was developed in the mid 1800s and became known across Europe as “Point d’Irlande. It was initially taught by nuns in convents and by wealthy philanthropists as part of Famine Relief schemes. The only equipment needed was a fine hook made from a sewing needle with the eye cut out which was then stuck into a piece of softwood as a handle. These hooks became known as “famine hooks” and enabled women to work from their own homes providing an essential source of income.

Irish crochet lace 19th century.

Different regions of Ireland produced very distinctive types of lace with techniques and skills passed down through the generations. Among these are :

• Clones Lace (Co Monaghan) - crochet lace incorporating motifs such as shamrocks, ferns, roses and marigolds joined together by a distinctive “Clones knot”.

• Carrickmacross Lace (Co Monaghan) - a combination of appliqué and embroidery.

• Kenmare Lace (Co Kerry) - needlepoint lace introduced by the Poor Clare nuns in 1861

• Limerick Lace (Co Limerick) - embroidery on net.

Lace collar c1860 worked on fine muslin by a girl in a Belfast embroidery class on display in the National Museum of Ireland. Girls as young as 5 years old worked for pitifully low wages embroidering for Glasgow merchants who supplied the English markets.

By the mid 19th century, Irish lace was in high demand across Europe and beyond. It was marketed through an extensive network of agents and retailers. One of the best know was Robinson and Cleaver in Belfast, a well known department store that gained a Royal Warrant from Queen Victoria for its Irish lace and linens. I have very fond memories of visiting this fabulous establishment with its grand sweeping marble staircase before it sadly closed its doors in 1984.

A Celebration of an Irish Heritage Craft and a Tribute to the Strong Resilient Women who created it.

Inspired by beautiful reliquaries I saw on a trip to Assisi in Italy where fragments of St Francis’s robe are preserved in glass, I began experimenting with ways to showcase the delicate lace I had collected.

Antique Irish Crochet lace jewellery.

Using old remnants of both Irish bobbin lace and Irish crochet lace I have created a collection of Antique Irish Lace Jewellery . This is a collection of individual pieces of wearable art celebrating the craft of Irish lace making and also the strong resilient women who created it.

I hope to continue expanding this collection as I discover more of these timeless treasures.

You can view the current collection here.

In Ireland you can find collections of Irish lace at the National Museum of Ireland in Dublin, the Ulster Folk Museum inCo Down and the Ulster American Folk Park in Co Tyrone.

Please contact me with any queries.